We felt as though we were entering Shangri-la as we wound up the misty two-lane mountain road that would eventually take us to San Pablito. This small and remote Otomi village near the border of the states of Hidalgo and Puebla is one of few places left in Mexico where the traditional bark paper known as amate is made. This paper, made from the inner bark of four indigenous trees, has been used since pre-Columbian times to record codices (bark paper books) and for religious offerings and health rituals, as well as white and black magic. Current masters including Julio Laja Chichicaxtle, have brought it into the modern age by creating beautiful art pieces which combine new techniques with the ancient art of amate.

In my green van were my friends Linda, Pam and myself. We were trying to keep up with Julio, who had driven his pickup down the mountain to guide us to his house, where he wants to show us the process he uses to make the beautiful decorative paper panels that he will be selling at this year's Maestros del Arte show in Chapala. Accompanying him on this leg of the journey was Marianne Carlson, the director of the Maestros show, who had been traveling with us on this trip to visit both returning and potential new artists for the show.